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Blues at a Basement Crossroads
Exit Nishi-Ogikubo Station through the North Exit, turn left, and continue past the police box along the busy Fushimi-dori shopping street, and an incongruous red torii comes into view. Pass through it, walking a little farther beyond the small Fushimi Inari Shrine, and a colorful signboard in the shape of a bluesman points to Hobo-ya in the basement of a building on the right. It is a dining bar where the blues has been played for over three decades. It is a bar, but it is a
James Farrer
7 days ago23 min read


Hello Friends: A French Restaurateur Finds Home on a Nishiogi Corner
On the corner of a small street about a seven-minute walk from Nishi-Ogikubo Station, on the way toward Women’s Christian University, sits Bonjour les amis, a sixteen-seat French restaurant with a family atmosphere that opened in February 2025. It is easy to recognize: a hand-painted Frenchman in a suit, beret on his head, holds a bottle and a glass of wine inside a heart-shaped storefront. The owner, Yoann Rohart — or “Yo” to his friends — is a Frenchman in his early forties
James Farrer
Jun 2621 min read


Seeking the “Secret Sauce” of a Nishiogi Favorite
In Nishiogi, as in other neighborhoods, there are corners where businesses seem to come and go so quickly that you can no longer keep track of what used to be there. And then, in just such a place, one eatery catches hold of Nishiogi’s finicky customers and, almost before anyone notices, becomes part of the everyday life of the neighborhood. Why does such a place take root? In a location where other delicious, well-conceived establishments have failed to last, what is it that
James Farrer
Jun 414 min read


Regional Toyama Cuisine in a Nishiogi Third Place
Nishi-Ogikubo is famous for independent izakayas, each attracting customers with its own style of service, cuisine, and (over time) its own unique community of regulars. With price inflation and a limited pool of customers, competing on price and volume is rarely the best option. Something special has to be on offer. One strategy that has emerged in Nishoigi is offering a refined version of regional Japanese cuisines that are not so common in Tokyo neighborhoods. We have repo
James Farrer
Dec 23, 202516 min read


Welcoming all the Little Night Birds to Nishi-Ogikubo
Exit JR Nishi-Ogikubo Station looking for some company to drink with, and the first place that catches your eye is likely to be Takanashi, with its inviting open front and an open window pass allowing customers to order a drink straight from the bar. Customers sipping drinks circulate the standing tables in front of the bar, while others cluster closer to the culinary offerings on the bar inside. Young and old, Japanese and foreign, they chat with the friendly staff and with
James Farrer
Nov 18, 202521 min read


Making the city better, one cup at a time
A wave of small cafes have opened in Nishi-Ogikubo since the COVID pandemic. With only six seats up a narrow wooden staircase, Palm Park...
James Farrer
Mar 5, 202514 min read


A Business Model for Better Living
With a reputation for quirky independent businesses, Nishiogi (Nishi-Ogikubo) has become a magnet for wannabe gastronomic entrepreneurs. But despite its reputation for fostering independent eateries, finding customers interested in a unique product is only the final hurdle. Before that, a location must be secured, a menu created, and key decisions made about pricing and marketing. It helps to have a gentle guiding hand to avoid being slapped by the harsh “invisible hand” of m
James Farrer
Jan 4, 202517 min read


A Three-Generation Restaurant in a Changing Neighborhood
A three-generation soba restaurants creates new dishes to stay up with the times, while holding on to a neighborhood clientele.
James Farrer
May 7, 202412 min read


South Indian Cuisine from a Japanese Couple
How did a husband a wife with no experience in the food and beverage industry fall in love with the cuisine of a distant region and spend...
James Farrer
Apr 19, 202422 min read


A Mountain Survival Hut in Tokyo’s Urban Jungle
In the bustling heart of Nishiogi’s crowded drinking street is a hole-in-the-wall bar with a smart wood-trimmed interior and a rotating...
James Farrer
Mar 28, 202412 min read


A Hidden Ibasho For Music Lovers
Many people dream of opening a small shop or a café as a way of supplementing their income, connecting to a community, or sharing...
James Farrer
Jan 20, 202410 min read


The Wandering Restaurateur
Mashiko Yuuki is an unconventional restaurateur, a wanderer with dry humor and restless creative energy. Mashiko is owner-chef at Pic Nic...
James Farrer
Jan 3, 202414 min read


Ownership Succession in a Popular Neighborhood Restaurant
Nishiogi has many aging establishments with a loyal following of regulars, but one of the burning questions for most is who will take...
James Farrer
Dec 25, 202315 min read


A Woman Chef Creates a Space of Her Own
Exiting left from the North Exit of Nishi-Ogikubo JR Station, pedestrians, buses, and cars jostle along the narrow Fushimi Street....
James Farrer
Sep 8, 202315 min read


A Michelin Recommended Ramen Shop
When Tokyo people think of a neighborhood for ramen, Ogikubo would make the list with its famous shoyu-based soups. In contrast,...
James Farrer
Sep 5, 20239 min read


A Café, a Tree, and 10,000 Supporters
Standing in a park a residential area about a 10-minute walk from the north exit of Nishiogikubo Station is a magnificent zelkova (keyaki) tree, known by some local children as Totoro’s tree, because of its resemblance to the tree in the animated film My Neighbor Totoro. According to the Monumental and Large Tree Forest Database of the Ministry of the Environment, it is approximately 200 years old, with a trunk circumference of 550 centimeters and a height of 20 meters. Actua
James Farrer
Jun 9, 202322 min read


The End of a Nishiogi Landmark
In late March 2022, long lines formed in front of the French Restaurant and Bakery Kokeshiya, directly outside the South Exit of the JR...
James Farrer
Mar 26, 20238 min read


A Restaurant Owner as Community Activist
Sanninto – literally “three-person lantern” is a cozy dining bar on Heiwa-Dori street in Nishi-Ogikubo. A perfect spot for a quiet drink or unwinding with a book, it doubles as a salon for activist residents challenging the local political machine. Its cuisine, which is described as “non-national,” is creative izakaya fare, with a fusion of European and Japanese flavors. The dimly lit first-floor bar is favored by local women grabbing a bite and a drink after work, dining alo
James Farrer
Jan 23, 202318 min read


Facing the Pandemic, a Big Restaurant Group Aims Small
Nishi-Ogikubo is known for independent restaurants. However, corporate-owned restaurants are increasing in the neighborhood. On March 31,...
James Farrer
Dec 28, 202210 min read


How to Succeed as an F&B Microbusiness (Cheesecake)
A baker describes how he set up his own micro-business in Nishiogi with the help of a consultancy.
James Farrer
Aug 4, 20229 min read
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